THE LONDON and COUNTRY BREWER
1736
CHAP. XV.
Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease their Strength.
Malt Liquors, as well as several others,
have long lain under the disreputation of being adulterated and greatly abused
by avaricious and ill-principled People, to augment their Profits at the Expence
of the precious Health of human Bodies, which, tho' the greatest Jewel in Life,
is said to be too often lost by the Deceit of the Brewer, and the Intemperance
of the Drinker: This undoubtedly was one, and I believe the greatest, of the
Lord Bacon's Reasons for saying, he thought not one Englishman in
a thousand died a natural Death. Nor is it indeed to be much wondered at, when,
according to Report, several of the Publicans make it their Business to study
and practise this Art, witness what I am afraid is too true, that some have made
use of the Coculus India* Berry for making Drink heady, and saving the
Expence of Malt; but as this is a violent Potion by its narcotick stupifying
Quality, if taken in too large a degree, I hope this will be rather a prevention
of its use than an invitation, it being so much of the nature of the deadly
Nightshade [belladonna, very toxic], that it bears the same Character; and I am sure the latter is bad
enough; for one of my Neighbour's Brothers was killed by eating its Berries that
grow in some of our Hedges, and so neatly resembles the black Cherry, that the
Boy took the wrong for the right.
There is another sinister Practice said to be frequently used by
ill Persons to supply the full quantity of Malt, and that is Coriander
Seeds: This also is of a heady nature boiled in the Wort, one Pound of which
will answer to a Bushel of Malt, as was ingenuously confess'd to me by a
Gardener, who own'd he sold a great deal of it to Alehouse Brewers (for I don't
suppose the great Brewer would be concern'd in any such Affair) for that
purpose, purpose, at Ten-pence per Pound; but how wretchedly ignorant are those
that make use of it, not knowing the way first to cure and prepare it for this
and other mixtures, without which it is a dangerous thing, and will cause
Sickness in the Drinkers of it. Others are said to make use of Lime-stones to
fine and preserve the Drink; but to come off the fairest in such foul Artifices,
it has been too much a general Practice to beat the Yeast so long into the Ale,
that without doubt it has done great Prejudice to the Healths of many others
besides the Person I have writ of in the Preface of my Second Book. For the sake
then of Seller and Buyer, I have here offered several valuable Receipts for
fining, preserving and mellowing Beers and Ales, in such a true healthful and
beneficial manner, that from henceforth after the Perusal of this Book, and the
knowledge of their worth are fully known, no Person, I hope, will be so sordidly
obstinate as to have any thing to do with such unwholsome Ingredients; because
these are not only of the cheapest sort, but will answer their End and Purpose;
and the rather, since Malts are now only twenty Shillings per Quarter, and like
to hold a low Price for Reasons that I could here assign.
I own, I formerly thought they were too valuable to expose to the
Publick by reason of their Cheapness and great Virtues, as being most of them
wholsomer than the Malt itself, which is but a corrupted Grain. But, as I hope
they will do considerable Service in the World towards having clear salubrious
and pleasant Malt Liquors in most private Families and Alehouses, I have my
Satisfaction.
*Anamirta cocculus is a climbing plant of India and Southeast Asia. Its berry, Cocculus indicus, is a source of picrotoxin, a poisonous alkaloid with stimulant properties. In the lines following the use of the term, the author comments on how unhealthy it is (calling it "narcotick") and relating it to Deadly Nightshade.
London and Country Brewer - Preface and Contents